I have fitted a 1½" pressurised crankshaft in my Austin Seven. The conversion, I believe is very similar to the one that Austin would have fitted to your new Nippy or early Speedy, at extra cost. (Ulsters had an pressurized 15/16" crankshaft).
I hope this
will be a useful guide if anybody else wishes to carry out a similar conversion
in the future.
I would
recommend that you have suitable good original parts to work with as you do not
wish these bits to let you down. Any special engine modifications that I have
not listed amongst my parts I will leave to you to source but for example you
may wish to consider a high lift camshaft, large inlet valves, double springs,
high compression head, change of carburettor or over bored block, just to name a
few bits.
As you will
see this is not a five minute job and you will need access to some machining,
but the end result is very satisfying and I now run with a 50~70 psi oil
pressure on the big end bearings, Combine this with the larger crankshaft
journals makes the bottom end very strong and quite indestructible.
There are a few questions that I have been asked, and may be helpful;
Q1. What did it cost?
I estimate that the parts costs alone has been the wrong side of £1750.00, if
you require to have block bored and a host of special bits then it’s just going
to be more.
Q2. Was it worth it?
No! but for me it’s a yes (if that makes sense!)
Q3. Why did I do it?
I have always
wanted a pressurized engine so for me this justifies it. The 1½" crankshafts are
virtually indestructible and this is a big attraction for me. This now gives a
engine capability of 6000 RPM (normal engines do not like much above 4500 rpm)
not that I am planning going to these limits. One other major point to consider
for me was I have had and known several incidents when the little end bolts have
failed in these little engines with catastrophic results and I feel this is a
very weak point. The Phoenix , Renault or original Nippy con-rods do not use
these bolt, these having a fully floating gudgeon pin in the piston like most
modern engines.
Q4. When should it this engine be considered?
I would strongly recommend that this type of engine is fitted, if you plan to
push your engine hard (the racing clan would not contemplate using anything
else) as the damage a broken crankshaft can cause at high speed is not worth
thinking about.
Q5. What would you do different?
Well I am still waiting for the new timing cover to be finished to accept a
starting handle. other than that not a lot. If you wish to go down this route
feel free to contact me.
Parts required: 1 x Phoenix Crankshaft; 4 x Phoenix Con-rods; 1 x Phoenix Nose piece; 1 x Set of shell bearings; 1 x Front timing cover; 1 x Set of front and rear bearings; 1 x Set Camshaft rollers; 1 x High pressure Oil pump; 1 x Relief valve; 1x Oils filter+ housing; 1 x Set of oil pipes and fittings; 1 x Complete gasket set; 1 x Rear seal cover; 1 x Set of tab washers; 1 x Set + 1 extra block to crankcase studs; 1 x Aluminium deep sump; 1 x Relief valve spring and ball; 1 x Small high pressure oil gauge; 1 x Set of new pistons [optional] or a set floating Gudgeon pins; 1 x Set of steel timing Gears [optional]
Parts to be modified:
Crankcase
1]. Oil jets remove and blanked, I copied the original jets but without the holes in the middle, I locktited them in for good measure.
2]. Camshaft location bolt removed and drilled to accept a 5/16" diameter hole.
Camshaft
1] Front bronze bush oil hole reduced to 3/32" size (using a 6 mm brass bolt as a plug) External ‘O' rings were fitted to outside of the bush to reduce oil loss. Modification to the bolt location to accept the additional block stud.
2] Rear bronze bush oil turned through 180 degrees and re-drilled with 3/32" and a new chamfer added.
Small parts:
New oil pump housing machined to suit sump/housing.
New timing cover made to fit housing and chassis.
Flywheel assembly, con-rods and pistons balanced.
Sump also required some machining to suit new oil pump.
This article, written by Mike Davies, originally appeared in CA7C Seven Focus in Mar 2006 pp16-17.
See also:
Every Piston Tells a Story
Front Main Bearing Retaining Lip
Gearbox Oil Seals
Good Sump Joints
Little End Bolt Failure
Overhauling the Gearbox
Replacing a 3-speed gearbox with 4-speed
Synchromesh Set-up